STYLE GUIDE
Can I pull it off?
Course you can! Western wear pieces are integral parts of our wardrobes already. Everyone owns a pair of jeans, a denim shirt or a bandana.
As work wear, we think western wear should be accessible. We generally avoid the very expensive brands, which we think can often look a little over-done anyways. You can get a kick-ass cowboy look without burning a hole in your jeans.
We love it when people go all the way with a look, but if you’re worried about looking like a movie extra, check out these tips.
Keep it simple: cowboy boots, jeans, tee, trucker cap; or boots and a dress. Mix western elements into your outfits. One or two items are enough to give a strong western feel.
For the rest, follow the materials: denim, leather, suede, wool, cotton. These will give your fit a western kick without looking obvious.
Go for good pieces from western brands that have heritage. This guarantees the right look.
Avoid extremes of oversize or skinny, which generally don’t read western. Western clothes look best when they fit right.
Get into some boots. Nothing makes you feel like a good pair of cowboy boots.
Have fun! Western wear doesn’t take itself too seriously, so neither should you.
HATS
Western hats are synonymous with working cowboys. Wide brims protect against the elements and high crowns keep heads cool. Hats are an all-purpose tool: a bellows to light a campfire, a horse trough for water, a signal waved in the air. As extensions of themselves, cowboys made hats their own by creasing, curling, adding hatbands and feathers.
A good western hat should be made from stiff material that keeps its shape, usually felt or treated straw. Leave leather hats to the Aussies. Wool felt hats are lower priced than fur felt, which are softer and more weather resistant. Fur felt hats are made chiefly of rabbit or more expensive beaver. A hat’s X rating corresponds to the ratio of beaver to other fur, with 10X being 100%. It’s subjective though and varies between brands. Standard colours include black, brown, tan or silverbelly (cream).
Hats are shaped with steam. There are many ways of shaping the brim and crown, but we prefer the classic cattleman crease for a clear western silhouette. On the brim we go for a decent curl at the sides and a front that isn’t too wide.
We’re partial to a decorative hatband or a feather, but avoid hats with fake ageing or burn marks. We prefer to let time tell the hat’s story.
Not quite ready for a ten-gallon cowboy hat? Try a narrower brimmed Stetson Open Road which still has the cattleman crease or use one of our cowboy hat trucker caps as a place holder.
We always have a selection of vintage western hats in the store and the come with a free feather and a naughty card to pop in the hat band.
Brands to look out for: Stetson, Resistol.
BOOTS
Cowboy boots are work wear. Narrow toes allow riders to find stirrups and heels stop feet slipping through them. High shafts protect shins from snakes, thorns and riding gear and Stitching keeps them from buckling and chafing the legs. Over time the practical became decorative. Exotic skins, different toe shapes and stitching that burst into colour with stars, swirls and wings. Ranching may be a dying art, but cowboy boots are still with us. The good guys always win.
There are various types of western boots. Cowboy boots are for riding: high shafts with scalloped tops, stitching and narrow toes. Roper boots are for roping cattle: low flat heels, lower shafts and little stitching. Walking boots have flat heels, rubber soles, wider toes and decorative shafts. Western work boots blend steel toes with western style boot shafts.
Men usually wear their jeans over their boots and women tend to tuck their jeans into their boots. People often match boots, belt and hat. In both cases, do as you damn well please!
Pointy toes look dressier or more rock. Wide square toes read more conservative. If in doubt go for something rounded with a gentle taper, these are the originals. Few things look as good as well cut jeans over cowboy boots, but we also love a knee-high suede boot with a dress or with denim cutoffs. If you’re not quite ready, a western ankle boot or western work boot is a good compromise.
In terms of fancy boots, special places in our hearts for a dressy lizard pair or out-of-this-world stingray. We also love the rockstar vibes of snakeskin boots; the heavy duty, no messin’ attitude of bullshark or the oil tycoon look of a pair of croc boots with a sharp western suit and a big ol’ hat.
We always have a selection of pre-loved boots in the store. We’ll help you figure out which toe shapes and styles work best for you. Get ready though - the right pair of boots will make you feel powerful and put a sway in your hips. Life may never be the same again.
Brands to look out for: Lucchese, Heritage Boot, Tony Lama, Rocketbuster, Dan Post, Justin.
JEANS
Tough, cheap, durable and perfect for riding, jeans have been cowboys’ unofficial uniform since forever. Forget expensive selvedge denim workwear. In the rural west, Wrangler reigns supreme. Levis are okay, but for jeans, we prefer Wrangler. If you dress western, there just isn’t a better style-price-quality relationship.
To really pull off a western look, you’ll need to ditch those skinny or baggy jeans. Boots shoved under the legs of tight jeans just doesn’t look right. The jeans you need are the original Wrangler Cowboy Cuts. These are still slim fitting up top, but boot cut from the knee down, so they’ll go over your boots. Their higher waists make your legs look longer and small pockets make the best of your ass. We prefer the originals in stiff blue denim, but also like the slim fit version. Stretch denim only if you really must. For a dressier pant, try Wranchers for a cool retro western look. Remember Wrangler sizes run small, y’all.
We always have a selection of vintage cowboy cuts in the store.
SHIRTS
Western shirts are adapted to the needs of working cowboys. Broad shoulders allow for movement when riding and roping. A long, tapered body allows it to stay tucked in. Shoulders are reinforced with a yoke made from two layers of fabric. Snap closings can pop open if the shirt catches on horns or thorns.
As time went by, shirts became fancier. Performers like rodeo riders, country singers and movie stars popularised exuberant colours, embroidery and patterns. Look out for smile pockets reinforced at the edges with stitched arrows, sawtooth pockets with double points and gunfighter cuffs with six snaps for extra decoration.
Western shirts have changed with fashion. 50s and 60s shirts majored on piping, contrast yokes and emboridery; 70s shirts have ultra fancy yokes or contrast floral prints and dagger collars; 80s and 90s shirts have bold colour blocking, wild geometric prints, flaps or asymmetrical fastenings. We love ‘em all.
We love true western staples like a plain denim shirt, a classic check or retro stripe. Pair them with denim, leather or sports jackets. Western shirts also look good open with a plain tank in summer, or layered up with a long sleeve henley in winter. If you’re feeling braver, opt for a southwest pattern shirt or a swirling paisley print. At the fancier end are shirts decorated with embroidery, appliqué, fringe or sequins. Crazy western shirts always draw positive reactions. We definitely prefer a shirt tucked in, as is the western standard, but do as you please!
Brands to look out for: H Bar C, Rockmount, Miller, Karman, Larry Mahan, Wrangler, Scully.
OUTERWEAR
Lots of the west is pretty cold, so outerwear is a staple part of the western wardrobe. Jackets are more common than long coats which are impractical for riders. Jackets and waistcoats often have western yokes and are typically denim, wool, waxed cotton, leather or suede and often blanket or sherpa lined.
Denim trucker jackets are some of the easiest western items to wear. Our favourites are Lee’s 101 for the flattering v-shaped silhouette, or Wrangler’s 124 for its cropped waist and slant pockets. Both brands are doing re-editions of these classic western icons but we’d go vintage for better quality denim. For Sherpa jackets, we’re with 80s Levis, which have a longer straighter cut for winter and nice bulky shoulders. Vintage Levis leather or suede truckers cost a bomb, but Gap leather truckers are a well-kept secret.
The definitive suede and fringe western jackets are by Schott, but we also love their 70s puffa jackets and vests with western yokes. Oregon-based woollen mill Pendleton have been making legendary native-inspired wool jackets for over a century. Pricey but sublime.
Not as common outside the US, but for a real working ranch look, we love waxed western jackets by Filson or Schaefer Outfitters. Canvas jackets are also key working western garments. Our favourite is Carhartt’s Santa Fe with western yokes. The new outerwear to watch is Ginew, the first Native American owned denim company.
Check out our selection of vintage jackets and vests in the store.
BANDANAS
Bandanas have a hundred uses for working cowboys: protecting the neck, absorbing sweat, filtering water, dressing wounds...
Choose prints where the ink sits “in” the fabric, rather than single sided prints which are often white on the reverse. Go for a traditional paisley print or something more geometric. Fold in half diagonally, then in half again (tip to edge), then roll it before tying in a double knot at the front, or use a scarf slide. You can also wear it casually stuffed in your back pocket, but know your hanky code.
Wild rags are the cowboy’s choice in winter. They’re much larger than bandanas and made of silk. We particularly love these. Plain silk looks good or go jacquard and wear with a plain western shirt and wool waistcoat with lapels for an old west look. Fold in a diagonal half, pass the ends around the back of your neck, then tie at the front in a double knot.
Our bandanas are hand screen printed in Tennessee on 100% US cotton.
BELTS & BUCKLES
Western belts are usually leather and often tooled with floral or geometric designs or decorated with silver conchos. Ranger belts have narrower ends that give a svelte look, with tooled metal buckles, hoops and tips. Buckles are often removable and heavily decorated. Big rodeo buckles are competition trophies and typically mention the event, place and date of the win.
Remember it’s not the size of your buckle that counts, but we do love a big one. We also love a humorous belt buckle, but no confederate flags please folks.
A plain black or brown belt from the store is a good place to start, then you can change up your buckle and start a collection. We always have a selection of vintage buckles in stock too.
Check out buckle makers Gist, Cumrine or Judge Leo Smith.
BOLO TIES
Traditionally these are formal attire, something to wear to the dance, worn with the top button done up as you would a regular tie. We love a bolo tie with a a suit and a snazzy pair of boots but also more casually with a western shirt.
Bolos work best with plain or denim shirts, but also stripe and check shirts. We think they get lost on heavily patterned or embroidered shirts. People also make them work tied loose with tank tops like a necklace. Do as you please!